Derek Pratt by Luca Soprana
The Derek Pratt Remontoir d’Égalité by Luca Soprana is the realisation of a watch Derek himself never had time to finish: a constant-force wristwatch built around his signature Reuleaux-triangle remontoir. Years after first seeing Pratt’s prototype, Luca returned to the project with the blessing of Derek’s family and rebuilt it from the ground up at Atelier SMA – redesigning the calibre to honour Pratt’s aesthetic and technical standards, bringing his pocket-watch chronometry into a slim, contemporary wristwatch made in only a handful of pieces.
Behind this watch is the philosophy of Luca’s atelier: a small, discreet workshop that has long been the invisible backbone behind high complications for others, now signing its own name next to Pratt’s. The Derek Pratt by Luca Soprana is not about noise or marketing; it is about making the key mechanical idea visible, hiding everything that is not essential, and finishing every component by hand, slowly and honestly. It connects English chronometer thinking with modern independent watchmaking – a quiet, deeply considered piece for collectors who care more about substance and lineage than hype.
Key elements
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DP Movement
At the heart of the Derek Pratt Remontoir d’Égalité is calibre DP07, a hand-wound movement developed in LS atelier to finally bring Pratt’s Reuleaux triangle remontoir from pocket watch to wrist. Twin suspended barrels in a motor-barrel configuration feed a one-second constant-force remontoir mounted coaxially with the escape wheel, driving deadbeat seconds at seven o’clock and delivering roughly a day and a half of autonomy. The gear train is largely hidden so the eye goes straight to the large free-sprung balance, remontoir and Reuleaux triangle cam – a piece of pure chronometry executed with sharp anglage, frosted and brushed surfaces and the blessing of the Pratt family.
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A sleek case in steel or platinum
The watch is housed in a 316L stainless-steel or platnium case measuring about 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in thickness, with proportions that wear modern but controlled on the wrist. A polished bezel and lugs are contrasted by vertically brushed case flanks, with a curved mid-case and tapered lugs that keep the profile fluid rather than bulky. Front and back sapphire crystals open the watch completely, turning the movement into a mechanical landscape on the wrist and underlining that this is a piece built to showcase high watchmaking rather than hide it.
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A sophisticated dial
For the main collection, the Derek Pratt by Luca Soprana is delivered with a grey dial – the configuration selected as a finalist for the 2025 GPHG. The surface is finely textured, with an off-centre small seconds at seven o’clock and a classical Roman-numeral chapter that balances the asymmetry of the movement underneath. Slim, heat-blued hands and a discreet “Derek Pratt” signature complete a dial that feels deliberately understated, allowing the constant-force seconds and overall architecture to speak to collectors who understand what sits behind this watch.